2025-04 Pin Setting
Dean Petrich
After tuning each string, slightly wiggle the tuning hammer left and right, and forward and backward, to eliminate any residual pin torque and flag poling.
As the tuning hammer turns a tuning pin, the pin block resists the tension and the pin literally twists; when the tuning hammer is released, the twist will relax and the pitch will drop slightly, which is why we generally tune a flat note above pitch and then nudge it down. During almost any turn of the pin, especially when using a tuning hammer tip that is too large for the tuning pin, there can occur a slight bending or flag-poling of the pin forwards or backwards in addition to turning it in the block. Once you hear that the note is where you want it, the simple practice of wiggling the tuning hammer in each direction on the pin provides immediately feedback as to where the pin has settled, and allows for minute adjustments to set the pin in a stable position.
When tuning unisons, if you tune the right string, the center string, and the left string, for example, take a couple seconds to go back and check the center string and the right string that you just tuned. This double-unison tuning will let you know how well you set your pins. Adjust accordingly.
2025-03 Center Pin Lube
Dean Petrich
Carry a center pin lubricant in a separate case to every tuning.
Probably the most common problem for notes that don’t work is that the center pins are sluggish. Debris, rubbing keys, misalignment, or dislodged springs are easy to fix, but if a center pin is tight, there are only three ways to fix it, and CPL is the quickest. Sometimes you can borrow an (or use your own) electric hair drier to dry out tight center pins, but there are times when the flange is so stiff that the center pin must be replaced. However, if you have a small oiler bottle with a long needle to reach hammer, jack, and damper center pins, you will usually be able to solve the problem quickly without removing the action. As a precaution, carry lubricants and glues in a dedicated container that can accommodate spills or breakage.
2025-02 Tuning Lever Tips
Dean Petrich
Carry a selection of tuning lever tips in your tuning case.
Not all tuning pins are the same size. A #3 tip will feel too sloppy on a #1 or #2 pin, and a #1 tip won’t even fit over a #3 pin. Antique square grands have rectangular instead of square tuning pins and require a long head to reach over the frame; a normal tip will not even fit. Rocker stringer pianos require a square rather than a star tip. Ideally, your selection of tips should include #1, #2, #3, square, and rectangular, a tip removal tool, plus heads of different angles and lengths.
Another option is to carry a separate dedicated case containing tuning hammers ready to go, each with a different tip already attached. While you’re at it, add an impact hammer, a ball-handle hammer, a T-hammer, and a harpsicord tuning hammer. You are now prepared to tune anything.
2025-01 Troubleshooting
Dean Petrich
When troubleshooting anything that is not working, or sounds that shouldn’t exist, systematically eliminate possibilities starting at the beginning with the simplest solutions and working towards the most complex at the other end.
For example, start with the front of the key, move back to the center and sides of the key, look at the end of the key, and then work your way up from the capstan, flanges, whippen, and action parts in order, through to the hammer, the dampers, the string, the termination points, the bridge, the soundboards, the ribs, and the basic piano frame. As you go, isolate each part you are examining. As you eliminate what it is not, your number of possibilities of what it is reduce down until you find the one (or sometimes multiple) issue. Defining the problem is the first step towards a remedy.